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Room Treatment

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Ash View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ash Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2016 at 8:01pm
You could use multiple layers of high quality cardboard and perhaps even put a veneer finish over them to make them more attractive. You could use a slim timber like 3mm plywood to increase structural rigidity and improve bass response.

Just some ideas. Wink
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Richardl60 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Richardl60 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2016 at 8:42pm
Isn't that a bit like RA torlyte?

I know it sounds fanciful but has anyone had any experience of Marigo tuning dots? Claims appear very silly but as never tried them I cannot comment.

Their cd mat does work.
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Ash View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ash Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2016 at 10:36pm
I think I will get some 3mm MDF cut and maybe sandwich it inbetween two layers of moderately thick cardboard so my open baffles are rigid with not too much mass and not overly reflective of sound waves, as well as acoustically decoupling the mass from the resting surface like a suspension. Can get a pair cut for 12p/12pw and for 12pw/7p, for side-by-side comparison.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fatmangolf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2016 at 12:05am
It's worth remembering that open back speakers, just like electrostatic panels will be effected by reflected full range sound from the front wall. You may need to treat the reflecting surfaces unless you like the resulting sound.

Graham has written before about avoiding large speakers in small rooms so there is less bass to make the room boom. At the risk of over-simplifying it would prevent the problem instead of needing treatment afterwards.

I have floorstanding speakers I like in a nearly square room with alcoves so it's some way from ideal and definitely benefitted from corner bass traps even with the standmounting speakers I had before. I use rule of thirds on the speakers and the PLP 29% out from rear wall as a starting point. I also like the evenness I've got with the bass by using XZ=YY where X, Y, and Z are the woofer height from floor, distance from side and rear walls.

For room layout I can recommend some handy tools:
-Retracting metal tape measure
-Decorators masking tape which come off almost any floor without damage
-Spirit level with LED laser - handy for initial 'grid' to position speakers
-For toe-in with the laser pointer: 1.2-1.5m length of skirting board, use tape and pen to mark a simple rule with central zero. Rest it on back of chair
-Black marker pen for marking tape on floor
-Note paper and pen for recording character of sound in different positions
-Optional: ultrasonic or other electronic tape measure for room dimensions, small mirror for finding FRP's
-Ideal: helper who won't laugh at you

I am not going to tell you how to measure your room and put tape down but spiked speakers/stands would allow you to focus on locating the front inner spikes. Find front positions that seem reasonable - see the online resources for this - and point the speakers down the room for now, slight toe-in is fine. listening position is on their centre line, start with it at one-third (i.e. 33% or even 29%!) from rear wall*. Move speakers forward, marking the front inner spike position, number it on the masking tape.

*balance low bass and the rear wall reflection (you can kill this later with treatment but I aim for at least 1.2m).

Toe-in. By tipping the speaker/stand you can rotate around the inner spikes so inner wall spacing/centreline is fixed. For toe-in try the LEDR tones (Nordosk CD or download MP3's) or the simple route of pick a point on the rear wall which is on the centre line and aim the speakers at it. I rest the level with laser pointer on the inner (or outer side) of the speakers in order to quickly match their toe-ins, make a note or make the floor tape position, listen and compare to other toe-ins. Zone in on the best of the day and mark it so you can get back to it again when you next tweak the layout and then wish you hadn't.
Finally level the speakers using adjustable spikes if available.

Survival tips:
Vary the music so it's not the same track again and again.
Take breaks.
If it sounds decent, or you've just had enough, just listen to some music instead!

Jon

Open mind and ears whilst owning GSP Genera, Accession M, Accession MC, Elevator EXP, Solo ULDE, Proprius amps, Cusat50 cables, Lautus digital cable, Spatia cables and links, and a Majestic DAC.
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Ash View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ash Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2016 at 7:28am
My point about me not using box speakers in a small room is because they amplify/enhance room reflections because you end up with radiating solid faces instead of just air moving. With open baffle, to prevent lots of room reflections in my small room, I move them in a bit from the corners of the room, a little forward away from the back wall and keep the volume down enough so they hardly reflect off the front wall. Then I take a seat somewhere in the nearfield on the centre line.

Prevention is better than cure IMO yes.

12p seems to be a little more sensitive than 12pw so not sure how well their volumes will match when driven directly in parallel from Proprius. The 12pw is for bass support so I may have to build a partial enclosure for it.

Edited by Ash - 13 Apr 2016 at 7:57am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote McHolmeM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2016 at 8:43am
Originally posted by Fatmangolf Fatmangolf wrote:


For room layout I can recommend some handy tools:
-Retracting metal tape measure

At 2m the only retracting metal tape measure to hand at the weekend was too short so I improvised by using the vacuum cleaner. With the upended body on the seat in a vertical position and cable entry point located at the 'sweet spot' at head height I used the inertia reel operated cable as a measuring device! Fine tuning by ear and the use of the handy IsoTek set-up disc along with the other tools mentioned here.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IntempestaNocte Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2016 at 1:05pm
Confused...

Erm...

I think I'll just get a longer cable for my headphones then.
Scott

AT150MLX > Audiomods Series V Standard > Rega RP6 > Accession MM > Marantz PM6005 > KEF Q100 / Solo UL > HD540II.
Voyager, Bitzie, AgSat90.
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