Turntables and Hum
Printed From: Graham Slee Hifi System Components
Category: Turntable Audio
Forum Name: High Fidelity Turntable User
Forum Description: Technical Q&A, hints and tips
URL: https://www.hifisystemcomponents.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2777
Printed Date: 27 Mar 2026 at 2:55am Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.01 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Turntables and Hum
Posted By: Graham Slee
Subject: Turntables and Hum
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2016 at 9:24am
With the wider introduction of the magnetic phono cartridge from around 1968, along with the requirement to mains-safety earth non-double insulated turntables, came hum! Lots of it.
But people into hi-fi at that time tended to also be into hobby electronics and were quite well genned-up on a thing called "hum-loops", and knew how to solve them - or soon found out.
Because of the mains safety earth on the turntable as well as the mains safety earth on the amplifier, as soon as one connected the little black "earth" (or "grounding") wire between turntable and amplifier - which was supposed to make it all hum-free - it hummed!
The reason? Being safety-earthed at both ends it set-up what's known (or what was known then) as the hum-loop.
The only way to solve it was to disconnect the earth wire in the turntable mains plug! This made the turntable unsafe as far as the regulations were concerned, but any fault current would flow in the little black "earth" wire to the amplifier chassis, and via the amplifier to its mains-earth. Not ideal protection and against regulations, but if the owner accepted the risks, he/she got hum-free sound.
During the '70s the Japanese introduced the Technics and Pioneer hi-fi turntables which, intended for the world-wide market, could not rely on a mains-safety earth, and so had to be double-insulated, and were. The hum problem was solved!
Over the following years fewer people engaged in hobby electronics, and the "art of controlling hum" got forgotten about thanks to these new-fangled foreign turntables.
But then, by the (very) late '70s, a new breed of turntables came along, aimed at "better hi-fi". One of them made by Rega featured the Acos Lustre (Acos-Rega) tone-arm. This too worked hum-free. The reason being that like on the Technics and Pioneer decks, the Acos used a "5th" cartridge wire which thoroughly grounded (earthed) the entire arm tube and arm base.
 (image courtessy of vinylengine.com)
However, the Acos tone-arm was the "elephant in the room" being a "brought-in" part. The new breed of hi-fi turntable makers wanted a hi-fi arm (snobbery? The Acos was a great tone-arm). The trouble being that most hi-fi tone-arms don't bother with the "5th" cartridge wire, and totally rely on the arm-bearings to ground out the arm tube.
Is that a good idea? Absolutely not! How can a lubricated bearing conduct the electrical pick-up noise (which causes hum) from the arm tube to the arm base, where the little black "earth" wire is connected to?
The answer is: very badly!
But that is often the case with "new-age" hi-fi turntables over the past 20-30 years to this day. You are totally reliant on bearing conduction to be hum-free, and it simply doesn't always work. Therefore because of the resistance between arm tube and arm base, hum can develop. It might not amount to very much, and often it varies between one tone-arm and the next because of variances in the "tightness" of the bearings, but we'd be better off without it.
You would think that arm manufacturers would have been rushing to solve the problem - after all it isn't hi-fi to have hum? Think again!
To be truly "hip" in hi-fi you use a moving coil cartridge. And if you do it actually lessens your chances of hum.
The hum noise in the poorly earthed arm-tube gets onto your music signal by it being induced into the cartridge. So if you are using a moving magnet cartridge which has lots of a thing called inductance, that hum is easily induced into it.
The moving coil cartridge doesn't have much inductance, and therefore much less hum is induced into it - it is very much quieter if not silent.
Therefore the "hip" hi-fi user doesn't have the problem and the arm manufacturer doesn't have a worry?? It's only the minority who use moving magnet cartridges who are aware.
This is such a shame as because we make (and love) moving magnet phono preamps which make moving magnet cartridges sound so good, the modern-age tone-arms without proper grounding introduce hum... and so often the lowly phono preamp gets the blame.
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Footnote: A number of other tone-arms of the '70s era made use of the "5th" cartridge wire grounding technique, and the "tell-tale" is usually the sighting of a small screw head (or two) under the arm tube just to the rear of the headshell, which is where the wire was attached.
------------- That none should be able to park up and enjoy the view without a smartphone and the knowledge in how to use apps
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Replies:
Posted By: Drewan77
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2016 at 10:18am
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Thanks for that interesting (as always) explanation Graham.
My Audio Origami rewired RB303 arm with grounding wire attached to the stud on the Reflex M produces no hum, even at high vol (without the wire, there was a small amount of hum).
The Audiomods V arm without using its grounding wire to the Accession produces no hum, again at high vol (with the wire, there was a small amount of hum).
Both use MM carts & connect to the same preamp.
------------- Older than I once was, younger than I'll be ............................. Andrew
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Posted By: McHolmeM
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2016 at 11:05am
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Graham's statement pretty much reflects my own experience.
A few years ago when my Rega deck was pressed back into service after a prolonged hiatus given over to digital replay there was a pronounced and distracting hum that I'd not been so aware of before. This was maybe because I'd forgotten or perhaps as all the electronics had been changed in the interim the problem was now amplified. The arm/cartridge combination then was RB250/G1042, anyway I changed to moving coil and the problem disappeared.
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Posted By: DaveG
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2016 at 1:40pm
Interesting subject. Something I made a (failed) effort to understand when I recently re-set up my TT. My own arm comes with very specific grounding instructions & the cable has 3 flying earth leads. L+R and ... ermm... another one. Something along the lines of there must be a single earth between arm & preamp/phonostage & when there is already a direct earth route due to metal parts (as in my Gorbe), then the cable acts as the sole earth and any others, such as a direct earth between TT & mains should be omitted to achieve best S/N. Anyhow, with everything connected to my Reflex/EXP there is no hum at all.
------------- Dave
Michell Gorbe + HR PSU -> Cadenza Bronze -> SME V -> Elevator -> Accession -> Proprius -> B&W CM6 s2 | Cusat 50 & Spatia cables ->
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Posted By: Fatmangolf
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2016 at 8:56pm
Thanks for that explanation Graham, it makes sense of some past experiences I had with my and other people's turntables. I can also see now why disconnecting the tonearm ground generates far less hum than I would expect from a high gain MC system.
Dave, I think we've been on nearly parallel voyages of discovery with our Gorbes. I linked my armboard (yes that Michell OL version that took ages to arrive!) to the chassis, taking a decent copper wire from the armboard tag to the ground terminal on the back of my Elevator EXP. There's little hum if I disconnect it, minimal compared to instead disconnecting the tonearm's ground, which confirmed there is no electrical connection between arm and arm board.
Luckily my Zyx cartridge is not grounded through the casing so it doesn't create an ground loop when I connect the arm's earth to the terminal on my Elevator EXP. I do this rather than connecting the arm ground to the arm board as linking them would mean I'd get a ground loop if the arm ground lead came into contact with any connectors or metal hi-fi casing.
The connection between the EXP and the subsequent stage after (now an Accession, formerly a Revelation M) is more challenging as I run both units off the same PSU1. The Cusat50's give such a good ground connection I was able to cut the 0V/ground wire in my power supply cable. There was a faint hum before I cut that wire.
------------- Jon
Open mind and ears whilst owning GSP Genera, Accession M, Accession MC, Elevator EXP, Solo ULDE, Proprius amps, Cusat50 cables, Lautus digital cable, Spatia cables and links, and a Majestic DAC.
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Posted By: ICL1P
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2016 at 10:29pm
I sold my Acos Lustre GST-1 on eBay recently. It ended up in the Netherlands and was destined for a place on a Soulines TT. I heard recently it didn't fit the Soulines despite being an SME fit, which the Soulines was.
------------- Ifor ===== Reflex M & ACCESSION M, CuSat50, Majestic DAC, a Proprius pair.
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Posted By: Graham Slee
Date Posted: 25 Jan 2016 at 7:09am
ICL1P wrote:
I sold my Acos Lustre GST-1 on eBay recently. It ended up in the Netherlands and was destined for a place on a Soulines TT. I heard recently it didn't fit the Soulines despite being an SME fit, which the Soulines was. |
From memory, the arm hole to spindle measurement was shorter with the Acos.
------------- That none should be able to park up and enjoy the view without a smartphone and the knowledge in how to use apps
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Posted By: ICL1P
Date Posted: 25 Jan 2016 at 7:40am
Graham Slee wrote:
ICL1P wrote:
I sold my Acos Lustre GST-1 on eBay recently. It ended up in the Netherlands and was destined for a place on a Soulines TT. I heard recently it didn't fit the Soulines despite being an SME fit, which the Soulines was. |
From memory, the arm hole to spindle measurement was shorter with the Acos.
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To quote the guy who who bought it:
"The cut out has to be bigger than a SME cut. The issue is discussed with Soulines and I have suggested that they should leave the deck open for more options. So a discontinuing of the SME cut, in favor of a bigger round hole as they have on their topmodel, will be appreciated".
------------- Ifor ===== Reflex M & ACCESSION M, CuSat50, Majestic DAC, a Proprius pair.
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Posted By: Richardl60
Date Posted: 25 Jan 2016 at 2:59pm
The only him issue I had was down to cable management before moving my whole system. Having the PSU near other cables mains, interconnect or from memory speaker cables did cause horrific him issues. Self inflicted I know!
Richard
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Posted By: Pushpaw
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2021 at 2:18am
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Graham (or any other audio engineer types), what do you think of the method of chassis grounding of an audio system using an “RF router” proposed by Russ Andrews here: https://www.russandrews.com/images/pdf/GroundingV6.pdf - https://www.russandrews.com/images/pdf/GroundingV6.pdf
I have an issue with a dimmer switch causing hum in my system, but only when light is on. I noticed the hum disappears (when light on) if I touch my equipment - the phono cable interconnects on back TT, or if I touch my ULDE or Accession. Obviously I can’t stand there holding my equipment. Wondering if this grounding method would act similarly to me touching the equipment. Andrews also talks about improvements to sound from this additional grounding.
Thoughts?
------------- P******t Debut Carbon, Goldring 1042, GS Accession MM w/Enigma, GS Solo ULDE w/PSU1, Sennheiser HD6XX, Technics SU-800 IA, Castle Knight 1, PS Audio Ultimate Outlet, Lautus & CuSat50
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Posted By: BackinBlack
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2021 at 11:00am
You don't say if you already have a separate ground connections between TT and Accession or any other components. That would be the first thing I would try.
------------- Just listen, if it sounds good to you, enjoy it.
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Posted By: Pushpaw
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2021 at 1:25pm
I have a ground wire from TT to Accession.
------------- P******t Debut Carbon, Goldring 1042, GS Accession MM w/Enigma, GS Solo ULDE w/PSU1, Sennheiser HD6XX, Technics SU-800 IA, Castle Knight 1, PS Audio Ultimate Outlet, Lautus & CuSat50
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Posted By: Graham Slee
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2021 at 1:31pm
Pushpaw wrote:
Graham (or any other audio engineer types), what do you think of the method of chassis grounding of an audio system using an “RF router” proposed by Russ Andrews here: https://www.russandrews.com/images/pdf/GroundingV6.pdf - https://www.russandrews.com/images/pdf/GroundingV6.pdf
I have an issue with a dimmer switch causing hum in my system, but only when light is on. I noticed the hum disappears (when light on) if I touch my equipment - the phono cable interconnects on back TT, or if I touch my ULDE or Accession. Obviously I can’t stand there holding my equipment. Wondering if this grounding method would act similarly to me touching the equipment. Andrews also talks about improvements to sound from this additional grounding.
Thoughts?
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David, can I start by saying the guy is selling a product. He also sells interconnect cables that do not shield-out RF.
Ever since I was a lad, there have been "problems" with dimmer switches interfering with small signals.
The earliest form of radio was spark transmission - it had no position on the dial - it was so broadband anything picked it up.
Now, inside some monolithic silicon, your lamp's power is being abruptly switched. There isn't any spark; instead, it is a reactance due to inductance and capacitance. Its transmission medium is the mains supply.
When the lamp is fully on, the Triac (or a rectified Thyristor) cannot contribute any noise. However, when dimmed, the Triac gate is "fired" to switch during a mains half-cycle.
Whereas the diodes of a rectifier cause enough problems in switching somewhere close to a volt, the bi-directional controlled silicon diode (Triac) switches power to the load at some point during the much larger potential of a mains half cycle.
The voltage can be anywhere between zero and 350 volts peak. It "spikes" back down the supply cable, transmitting distorted noise at 100 cycles per second, both airborne and mainsborne.
The occasional earthing of class-II equipment through the human body is not related as simply as some marketing suggests.
If each source item were to be mains earthed, loops would exist to inject mains frequency noise into every interconnection. This is most noticeable with turntables and less noticeable with line sources. There are different degrees of signal to ground noise ratios.
Therefore, it is crucial to either have only one mains earth connection so that a loop cannot be formed or even none at all.
There is no connection to mains earth in a fully class-II system, which has to exist in an "accessory only" system. Mains earth is what it says. It is a connection between the mains supply and terra-firma - the ground we walk on.
That fully class-II system can then connect at any point with a class-I item, such as an integrated or power amplifier, without causing an earth noise loop.
What is important is the ground continuity, such that the shield - the common conductor of the interconnect - has no resistance at signal frequencies to speak of—the two class-II items so connected become one. The case/screening of one is the same potential as the case/screening of the other; therefore, no ground noise can exist.
Suppose everything in a system is class-II (some older amplifiers just had live and neutral and no earth in their supply cables). In that case, there is no mains earth, but as explained above, there can be no ground noise (including mains buzz).
But, if we introduce the human body in the form of touching any case/screening, the human body conducts it to terra-firma - or earth. Still, no noise can happen unless the loop is completed somewhere else, and the interconnect shield allows a rise in potential between the units.
That somewhere else is usually because the accessory system connects to an earthed amplifier. However, if it results in buzz, then it is because the human body can conduct to earth more effectively than the interconnect's shield can conduct between the equipment.
That last statement might sound a little odd. Surely wire can conduct more effectively than the human body? It depends on the inductance of the wire!
Suppose the connection between the cases/screenings is inductive. It acts as resistance at some frequency, and resistance allows the cases/screenings to break company.
As I said earlier, buzz (interference) is also airborne. At the frequency where the wire becomes resistive, it becomes an antenna - a receiving aerial!
Therefore, the cases/screenings have a signal potential between them. This forms a differential signal with the music signal (or, indeed, the silence when not playing), and buzz is amplified. The transducer/s reproduce it for you to hear.
Therefore, the shield needs to be effective at all frequencies, right up to the highest radio spectrum frequencies which may be encountered. A velocity of propagation of 85%, multiplied by the frequency of light, will do nicely.
But, and this is the but, the shield must be connected at each end. It must not be subordinated to another piece of wire that completes the run - as do many "hi-fi cables." As you should be now able to see, that wire will have greater inductance and allow that differential signal to form.
Likewise, the knitted or otherwise bell-wire constructed interconnects offer zero signal protection because of the case/screening interconnection's inductance.
Understanding the above shows that if done correctly, there is no requirement for something that treats the symptoms.
------------- That none should be able to park up and enjoy the view without a smartphone and the knowledge in how to use apps
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Posted By: Pushpaw
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2021 at 1:45pm
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Thanks Graham. If I understand your response, I should only have one mains ground and I need properly shielded interconnects. Is that accurate?
My system is plugged into only one wall socket, so I think that takes care of one mains ground.
I don’t use shielded interconnects. I have some CuSat50 on my wish list. Sounds like once I get those interconnects my problem will be solved.
Or did I totally misunderstand?
------------- P******t Debut Carbon, Goldring 1042, GS Accession MM w/Enigma, GS Solo ULDE w/PSU1, Sennheiser HD6XX, Technics SU-800 IA, Castle Knight 1, PS Audio Ultimate Outlet, Lautus & CuSat50
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Posted By: Graham Slee
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2021 at 4:17pm
You've heard the saying "it takes a man to admit..." (apologies to the woke reader)
Please can you verify which I think I might have read
"I don’t use shielded interconnects"
This is not to ridicule you in any way, but you will have been the first ever to man-up.
And it is very important that we see this in the context of getting any system to behave properly.
------------- That none should be able to park up and enjoy the view without a smartphone and the knowledge in how to use apps
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Posted By: Pushpaw
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2021 at 4:57pm
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yes it is very true. I don’t use shielded interconnects and I’m not afraid to say it. Has always been part of the plan to acquire some but haven’t pulled the trigger yet.
I’ll make 2021 the year of the Shield.
------------- P******t Debut Carbon, Goldring 1042, GS Accession MM w/Enigma, GS Solo ULDE w/PSU1, Sennheiser HD6XX, Technics SU-800 IA, Castle Knight 1, PS Audio Ultimate Outlet, Lautus & CuSat50
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Posted By: Graham Slee
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2021 at 5:22pm
Pushpaw wrote:
yes it is very true. I don’t use shielded interconnects and I’m not afraid to say it. Has always been part of the plan to acquire some but haven’t pulled the trigger yet.
I’ll make 2021 the year of the Shield. |
David, you have done high fidelity a massive favour - a much needed reset from the propagandists who have brought so much displeasure - those working the rot from the inside which has done so much harm to our extremely important recreational activity.
The times I have been accused of making noisy products by people using unshielded interconnects is more than enough to test any man's resolve.
Thank you.
------------- That none should be able to park up and enjoy the view without a smartphone and the knowledge in how to use apps
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Posted By: Pushpaw
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 2:55am
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I finally got some shielded cables - Lautus and some CuSat50. Interestingly I discovered that the RF noise in my system from the nearby dimmer switches is not entering through any of the components or cables. It’s coming through the turntable. I’ve been reading your posts about improper grounding on modern TTs and I think I’m the owner of such a TT. I believe it’s the TT because when I plugged a digital source into the ULDE the dimmer switch hum went away completely.
And when I unplugged TT but kept ULDE switched to input from the TT (just the Lautus cable) there was not RF noise.
So I will need to upgrade my TT to get rid of this.
Question: how do I know which TT brands are properly grounded and/or shielded?
------------- P******t Debut Carbon, Goldring 1042, GS Accession MM w/Enigma, GS Solo ULDE w/PSU1, Sennheiser HD6XX, Technics SU-800 IA, Castle Knight 1, PS Audio Ultimate Outlet, Lautus & CuSat50
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Posted By: patientot
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 3:46am
Pushpaw wrote:
Question: how do I know which TT brands are properly grounded and/or shielded? |
I can tell you that Technics turntables, assuming you're not talking about one that someone butchered, are usually properly grounded. Never had grounding problems with vintage JVC or Yamaha decks either. Of course they all had regular ground wires and metal tonearms. A friend had one of those PJs and it definitely had a grounding issue, among other issues.
My 2 cents.
------------- SL-1200 MK7 (modified) + Reflex M + PSU-1 used with AT150-40ML, AT VM610 MONO, AT VM95ML, Stanton 680mkII + Ogura, and Shure M35X cartridges.
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Posted By: Graham Slee
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 9:23am
In my experience, the culprit is usually the tone-arm "wand" - the waggly bit with the cartridge on the end - often, the mounting base is fine.
The Technics "wand," for example, has five "cartridge" wires inside. The black wire connects into the headshell adapter fitting, then runs the length of the "wand" along with the four cartridge wires.
All five wires then thread through below the bearing block, down into the arm base. Fitted inside the arm base is a small, simple printed circuit board with lands to which the wires are soldered, and opposite, the shielded cables attach, and the black arm "earth" wire.
As a result, there is electrical continuity all the way. Contrast that with "hi-fi" arms. I don't see many/any with the fifth wire. So how do they ground out the "wand"?
The only possible connection is the mechanical connection, which is the arm bearings (or single bearing on a uni-pivot). But bearings need to be lubricated, or they'll seize! A grease or oil film gets applied at manufacture, and somehow, the circuit ground conducts through that? If it does conduct, it conducts poorly.
But it gets worse. Carbon fibre is now the fashion, but as every car mechanic knows, it's resistive! If something is resistive, it doesn't conduct very well, but to "ground-out," it needs to conduct!
So why would they do this? Sound-effects! The ethereality - the not to be of this world!
Right on the knife-edge between stability and instability lies a "wonderful world" of "projected imagery." As one user was overheard to comment, "you could almost touch the electrons in the air as I was listening last night." That was met with nods and smiles by the (unnamed) company owner.
I have a suggestion: try lysergic acid diethylamide! I am told it is far cheaper than boutique hi-fi and makes any system sound out of this world! Even if you don't have a system!
Even the old BSR and Garrard consumer turntables had properly grounded arms.
------------- That none should be able to park up and enjoy the view without a smartphone and the knowledge in how to use apps
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Posted By: CageyH
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 1:27pm
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Personally, I find a wee dram of single malt makes my system sound better.
But my modufied HiFi(?) arm containing carbon fibre is grounded, as the Technics methodology has been kept.
------------- Kevin European loan coordinator, based near Toulouse, France. Funkified SL1200 Mk.II, BB3, Firebottle Kin , ADI-2 DAC FS, Modulus 686, PD-S703, Solo UL, Triangle Antal EZ
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Posted By: Pushpaw
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 1:48pm
Maybe I’m looked at things all wrong. If I just took the approach of opening the doors to my perception through chemical alteration, I could listen to any old system and be blown away by it. Maybe the ground hum itself would become like a symphony... they say good audio starts with a good source: in the end, we are the source of the sounds we hear, aren’t we? So we just need to upgrade ourselves. Ha!
------------- P******t Debut Carbon, Goldring 1042, GS Accession MM w/Enigma, GS Solo ULDE w/PSU1, Sennheiser HD6XX, Technics SU-800 IA, Castle Knight 1, PS Audio Ultimate Outlet, Lautus & CuSat50
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Posted By: Graham Slee
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 3:12pm
Pushpaw wrote:
Maybe the ground hum itself would become like a symphony... |
You never tried that? 
They say that chewed-up cassette tapes sounded out of this world! 
------------- That none should be able to park up and enjoy the view without a smartphone and the knowledge in how to use apps
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Posted By: Graham Slee
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 3:27pm
I often wonder why this stuff never caught on?
It could be that it doesn't attract the right kudos of radio waves.
Maybe it would help if you use this https://www.wires.co.uk/acatalog/ag9999_tape.html
Sleeve it individually, then place it in an overall sleeve. Add phono plugs, and voila!
"A great interconnect to replace arm cables."
"One core is rotated 90 degrees to the other core for effective shielding from interference."
And you think I'm taking the piss?
(perhaps we ought to have a confessions corner?)
------------- That none should be able to park up and enjoy the view without a smartphone and the knowledge in how to use apps
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Posted By: Pushpaw
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2021 at 3:15am
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Of interest for anyone else with a P******t Debut Carbon TT experiencing hum when the stylus/cart is over the record and/or is lowered toward the record (a common issue on this TT I believe) - I upgraded from the metal platter to the acrylic and the hum is completely gone. I still get RF interference from dimmer switches nearby but those are more of a buzz than a hum. The hum is gone. So I can only conclude it had something to do with the metal platter and stylus/cart interacting?
And there’s no longer any static buildup on the TT either which is great.
------------- P******t Debut Carbon, Goldring 1042, GS Accession MM w/Enigma, GS Solo ULDE w/PSU1, Sennheiser HD6XX, Technics SU-800 IA, Castle Knight 1, PS Audio Ultimate Outlet, Lautus & CuSat50
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Posted By: Graham Slee
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2021 at 8:19am
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I recall reading some audio history where a strongly magnetic high output moving coil cartridge was used on a turntable with a steel platter.
When the cartridge was lowered onto the record, the magnetic attraction was so strong that the cantilever was squashed into the cartridge body. The cartridge remained in intimate contact with the record.
It was a long time ago - the only type of magnetic cartridge in town was moving coil - which might have been around the time of Blumlein (1930s). Those were nothing like the MC's of today, by the way.
The magnets in a MM cartridge are tiny. The stylus causes them to move (some call it "vibrate") in proximity with two coils (two for stereo) and create a minuscule electrical signal. The magnetic attraction to a steel platter might be so weak that it doesn't add much to the playing weight.
Even though the signal is minuscule, it takes hundreds of turns of wire for each coil to produce it. It doesn't take much of an imagination to picture how fragile the wire is. Each coil is an inductor, and the varying distance due to stylus movement causes the variable magnetic field to be induced in the inductors, turning it into electricity.
In the same way as a dynamo gives out an increasing voltage, the faster the bicycle wheel turns, the cartridge output increases with frequency. The 1042's 6.5mV output at 1kHz becomes 1.47mV at 100Hz and 1mV at 50Hz. The phono stage applies more gain at those frequencies as part of its equalisation to bring the output at all frequencies, level.
In the upper mid and treble range, the output increases, and at 10kHz, the output is 31.5mV. A little above 10kHz, the arm cable capacitance and the phono stage input capacitance acts with the cartridge inductance and produces a peak (in the presence of a signal of such frequency). The 47k load impedance damps the peak within about +1dB of what it should be.
Beyond the peak, the signal starts to decay in the opposite direction and at the same rate as it rose. The stylus cantilever has some tuning-fork resonance which "carries" the signal upwards the partial octave required to reach 20kHz.
The cartridge body offers little shielding to the inductive coils against other magnetic fields because any metal shield will influence the velocity of the magnets. Steel has a strong attraction to magnetism, so it would be no use. Aluminium is effective as a shield but has some magnetic attraction (read up about mechanical speedometers).
Although the coil outputs fall after the >10kHz peak, their output reduces and is still slightly viable into the low radio broadcast spectrum (long wave). The cartridge wires, if left unshielded, have a length somewhat longer than the arm, so given an earth plane might readily accept radio wavelengths 1 metre and above.
Radio frequencies having wavelengths between 1 metre and 1000 metres might have a lesser effect, but that depends on their signal strength. For example, Mr H******n, a hi-fi reviewer, lives within a mile of London's Crystal Palace transmitter, but it seems he will not venture into discussing any of the above.
A plastic arm has no shielding, so the cartridge wires are exposed to UHF transmission frequencies, which just about covers every frequency above 200MHz.
The cartridge has no shielding, so might admit long-wave to mediumwave AM transmissions. The input capacitance of a phono stage offers some resistance but is not a short circuit to RF.
The phono stage designer has to make the music listenable, which requires it to perform up to the low MHz as any real amplifier designer knows! At the same time, it has to mitigate radio frequency interference. There are phono stages that might be "slugged down" significantly to block stronger RF, but as a result, slew so slowly as to be fatiguing to listen with.
A ferrous platter is challenging to ground to such a low impedance that the amplification ground "moves with it," not just because of the lubrication but the obvious resistance between the metals; otherwise, they'd not move!
Mutual inductance will ensure a ferrous platter vibrates by the magnetic fields all around it and next to it (e.g. motor).
Dimmers are rectifiers (SCR's - silicon control rectifiers), and all rectifiers fire-off wide-spectrum radio frequency interference due to their abrupt switch off characteristics. The strength of the interference is mitigated in some but cannot be entirely eradicated. They might be made compatible within acceptable limits, but record players are omitted (considered a relic of the past by legislators).
Turntable manufacturers are under no obligation to comply with EMC legislation as there is none. The only legislation is about electrical safety and energy efficiency (EuP legislation).
Whether preamp or power amp, every solid-state amplifier has some crystalline junction because that's how transistors and FETs work. They are the equivalent of a crystal radio with mitigation. There is a limit to as far as this mitigation can go, but turntable/arm manufacturers are not listening.
The earth is a ball spinning in space. There is no such thing as flat earth. I have given this written lecture in several forms over many years. Perhaps one day, somebody will understand it.
------------- That none should be able to park up and enjoy the view without a smartphone and the knowledge in how to use apps
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Posted By: Lucabeer
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2023 at 10:26pm
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Tonight I almost went crazy because I was hearing some hum on the Technics 1210 + Reflex M, which I had never hear even at full volume. Panic! Has the Reflex broken? Has the ground cable got loose? Has the Ortofon cartridge got some issues?
Oh, well, nothing so dramatic: I had forgotten the Sony LCD TV (which is near the turntable) on. I switched the TV off, and the hum disappeared.
I never thought that an LCD TV could cause so much hum (while I knew of the strong EM fields of old cathode ray TVs). I guess it's caused by the LED illumination of the panel, which switches on and off at 50/60 Hz (ideal frequency for hum!). Lesson learned!
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