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Help with a pre-amp

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iamalexis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iamalexis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug 2009 at 1:29am
i'm liking the sound of this...i would have a 35mm headphone type socket instead of the din input. i would use this for connecting an mp3 player, built in soundcard on laptop, iphone docking station, tv headphone out etc. i think if you were to include a headphone output (i think you should if you can, especially if it is close in quality to the novo) this could be situated next to it on the front panel to allow easy access for plugging in different sources.

i think din type connectors maybe a little scary for those not too familiar with the world of hi-fi. does the 240 din connector have an input and output on one connector? having a second pre amp out would be a nice feature to allow plugging into a headphone amp, soundcard i/p etc. the trs jack outputs make sense for plugging into a power amp or powered monitors.

i like the idea of the tone control but don't think a balance control is necessary. for the switching could you not just have one switch for the inputs only. the aux out could always be "on."

"hefty interconnect cables could cause it to do a wheelie..." it would be good to come up with a solution to this. i imagine this being a nice compact desktop unit which would sit solidly in place.

like the name too
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Graham Slee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug 2009 at 2:45am
I guess the pre-out which is not the main preamp output (those are on the 1/4" TRS jacks) could be "subordinated" to a 3.5 jack on the rear?

(by the way, the TRS jacks can also be used "unbalanced" for single sided power amp inputs)

Also aux send and return (used to be tape loop but I guess nobody uses tape anymore?) seeing they're most likely going to be used with some form of computer/iPod could also be 3.5 jacks?

All the above being on the rear...

Duplicates on the front could be OK, but reliable break jacks in 3.5 size are a bit of a laughing matter and therefore I'd have to rely on the user not plugging both to front and rear at the same time? Maybe I ought to just stiock with 3.5 jacks on the rear for aux send and return, and one for pre-out. And round the front input 3 on a 3.5 jack and headphone out also on a 3.5 jack?

I think that may appease most everybody?

The question being can I fit 2 3.5 jacks, a mini volume control for headphones, input selector "toggle", tone gradient "toggle" aux send/return "toggle" and main volume control all on the front? I shall draw it on the computer and see.

(toggle refers to the 3 position up-down switches as seen on some of our other products -- the "nothing" position would only cut the feed to the main and pre-outs but the aux out would not be interupted)


Edited by Graham Slee - 19 Aug 2009 at 2:49am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mrarroyo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug 2009 at 2:51am
How about instead of a rotary volume pot a digital one? It may add to much cost though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Graham Slee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug 2009 at 2:52am
Originally posted by mrarroyo mrarroyo wrote:

How about instead of a rotary volume pot a digital one? It may add to much cost though.


Maybe on the headphone out?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iamalexis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug 2009 at 9:00pm
i was having a think about the din versus 35mm headphone sockets. if you were to use the din connectors i suggest providing "graham slee" looms/breakout leads. this is what made me think of it (a compact soundcard with lots of i/o options)...

http://www.apogeedigital.com/products/duet.php

i also wonder if you were to use 35mm headphone sockets, it might be worth supplying leads to work with these?

i think a 1/4" headphone socket for the headphone would be a better bet. a smaller volume pot for the headphone makes sense to me. i don't think i know what a digital volume control is?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Graham Slee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug 2009 at 10:51pm
Thank you for that answer -- it helps a lot.

I think we need a poll on DIN versus 3.5mm jacks.

Quite happy to do a cable/loom selection but some people have their favourite interconnect cable brands which most of the time are unfortunately not us.

A digital volume control is similar to the up-down buttons on a remote control. Except for the motorised volume controls you get on expensive gear, usually it's a voltage controlled amplifier stage similar to that used in cheap cassette recorders that did ALC -- automatic level control. They can be done pretty well these days and voltage controlled amplifiers (in effect a little sub-circuit) have been used for years in studios -- the expensive Penny and Giles sliders simply controlling a DC voltage.

However, I'm looking at a miniature Alps volume control instead to 1] keep the price reasonable and 2] make it all fit the drinks coaster sized/palm sized case footprint.

The smaller the parts, the more I can offer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andy9672 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug 2009 at 9:13am
I would rather have a DIN socket than a 3.5mm jack, i have had so many problems with small jack sockets.
Thanks to some other manufactures there are plenty of 5pin DIN to phono/jack cable available on the market, my local Hi-Fi shop sells cables from five different companies.

I agree with the small Alps pot as the volume control, allways thought they sounded strange but as i now have one on my pre-amp and one on my Solo I have to change my mind!!

Shame you can't lead line the bottom of the case, help with sheilding and stop it doing a wheelie!

Just an idea but could you use your cases sidewards and have the extrusion cut to a longer length, be a bugger to get the pcb, guts in the box but it would give you more front and rear surface area to play with.
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