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My L75

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ICL1P View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ICL1P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2019 at 5:56pm
Originally posted by Fatmangolf Fatmangolf wrote:

Hope you get some interest Ifor. It's great to have a nice housing for quality kit.
The guy who lost interest is now back in the frame.  Progress will be made.  I'm thinking, from bottom to top:

8mm Valcromat (blue)
2 x 15mm Birch ply
8mm Valchromat (blue)
3 x 15 mm Birch ply
8mm Valchromat (blue)
Ifor
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Reflex M & ACCESSION M, CuSat50, Majestic DAC, a Proprius pair.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ICL1P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2019 at 6:14pm
Originally posted by BackinBlack BackinBlack wrote:

Ifor,
I don't see any reason it would not work.
One point to bear in mind with the "spark suppression" capacitors as shown in your wiring diagram, the motor terminals remain "live" even when the switch is off as they are still connected via the capacitors to the mains. Many rebuilt turntables of similar design (Garrard, Thorens and Lenco) are/should be fitted with an IEC switched and fused inlet to provide proper protection and isolation.

Ian
I'm now think I might just use one of these IEC switched and fused inlets at the back left of the TT and not have a switch on top front.  Ian, I've looked at the DD11 series on the Schurter website but am am confused by the list of variants at the bottom of the page.  What do I need?  There's a similar one used in this thread with some wiring guidance, but I'm sure I'll end up coming back for more help with that at a later date.
Ifor
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Reflex M & ACCESSION M, CuSat50, Majestic DAC, a Proprius pair.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackinBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2019 at 9:00pm
Hi Ifor,

Does your kit of parts re-use the original switch arrangement? It may be more convenient than having to reach around the back of the deck each time you want to turn off/on and you can retain the original spark suppressor capacitor arrangement. 

Ian
Just listen, if it sounds good to you, enjoy it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ICL1P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb 2019 at 7:42am
Thank you Ian. I've ordered one. The original switch isn't reused. It's a rocket switch operated by a six inch long arm under the top plate.  I think I've flip flopped back to using the push button switch as well.
Ifor
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Reflex M & ACCESSION M, CuSat50, Majestic DAC, a Proprius pair.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ICL1P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2019 at 9:20pm
I'm looking for more help about switches. As well as a switched and fused IEC inlet I want an illuminated push button switch at the front left of the deck.


I got one of these SmartSwitch 12V/24V 18mm IP67 Steel LED Illuminated ON/OFF POWER Button Switch not appreciating that although the switch is OK for 250V AC the LED isn't.  I had seen that someone on Lencoheaven had successfully used a similar switch so I sent him a PM. This is his reply:


"Sorry for the late reply.  These switches come with an LED that would take 9-12v AC or DC. (This is important as most switches like these have illumination that only takes DC.). When the switch is turned on, there is a dropping resistor that goes from the live mains tag to the positive tag of the LED on the switch. The negative tag of the LED go to ground.

I used to get these switches from an eBay seller that would send the necessary resistors with the switch. They are rarer because they can take AC. The seller isn't on eBay anymore. (I actually used the last spare on last power amp build this year. I bought  the switches I use back in 2012 and 2014..). If you trawl ebay, you may find similar switches. Just ask the seller for the resistor values after. (If you're using DC in the circuit, you may be able to just tap for the voltage you need)".


So, I've been looking for a switch with an AC compatible LED and have come across this < https://docs-emea.rs-online.com/webdocs/1587/0900766b81587e78.pdf >. It says, with respect to the LED, "(AC/DC Compatible) Voltage & Rating: 230V @ 3mA".


I understand that the declared voltage in the UK is now 230V AC +10% to -6%, but that it is still nominally 240V AC.  So, my question is, would this switch be suitable and if so do I need a dropping resistor?  If I do, what would I need.


It's painful being ignorant!



Edited by ICL1P - 20 Mar 2019 at 10:23pm
Ifor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackinBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2019 at 7:29am
From the specification, no resistor required. The switch is single pole, you need contacts 3 and 4 labelled N/O in the live feed to the motor. The 2 connectors at right angles to the 4 appear to be the led contacts, which should be connected 1 to the live feed to the motor and 1 to neutral. I would suggest that when the connections are soldered the connector terminals are all covered in heat shrink sleeving to afford some protection against accidental contact.

Happy switching
Ian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ICL1P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2019 at 7:15pm
Out of stock until late August!
Ifor
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Reflex M & ACCESSION M, CuSat50, Majestic DAC, a Proprius pair.
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