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1970s Design Indulgence

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fatmangolf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jul 2018 at 1:48pm
It makes sense that they designed the amp around a 'friendly' power transistor and shows the risk of generic part swapping. Seems easy when an expert like Graham explains it.
Jon

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Graham Slee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jul 2018 at 8:07am
Never thought of myself as an expert - just reporting my findings based on trying things and researching the reaons why things happen. The difference is in looking in the right sort of places for information: it used to involve visiting libraries and much frustration until The Art of Electronics was published. Also semiconductor data books helped a great deal, but the best by far practical introduction to transistors (IMO) was Teach-in '76 (Everyday Electronics). Before that the basics came from a set of REME books which were used to teach forces engineers about valves and their uses. They were being thrown out by a library and the librarian thought I'd like them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Graham Slee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jul 2018 at 9:36am
Power Calculations and Estimates



3.5kg, or it will be with mounting kit. Does the transformer really need to be this big?

I decided I wanted a 68V nominal supply, and this is because I want to use my old favourite BD139/BD140 pre/driver transistors. They are rated 80V (Vceo) so I never want the supply to rise above 80V. Can it?

Transformer - rectifier relationships with a capacitive filter work thus: Vout = 1.414 x Vin, and Iout = 0.61 Iin.

So if I choose a 48 volt transformer for 230V mains, and being close to a larger than usual sub-station (a relic from an industrial age), and being in the UK where they generate 240V instead of 230V, I measured my mains voltage at 254 volts.

The transformer data also gives me off-load voltage of 51.6 volts, so at 254/230 volts that can increase by 10% to 57 volts.

If I then multiply it by 1.414 (root 2) I get 80.5 volts DC. Too much? Well, from the circuit diagram...



...we see at least one base-emitter junction in series with one of them, and that drops 0.6V, so I've just squeezed it to 0.1 volts inside its absolute maximum rating (see T7: if saturated it's collector is at 0V, and so is emitter T6 - no serious current through the emitter resistors - and so T4 emitter is T6's VBE drop above 0V. T4 is a BD139).

The chances of it actually reaching 79.9 volts are very slim indeed - it would have to be doing a full output squarewave into an open circuit, but it could happen.

What about current? I want to obtain something like 100 watts into 4 Ohms, and at least 50 watts into 8 Ohms. This is rms and so is the full power supply power...

100 watts into 4 Ohms is 20 volts rms into 4 Ohms which gives 5 amps of rms current (check: 4 Ohms times 5 amps = 20 volts). Watts is rms volts times rms current, and 20 x 5 = 100 watts.

And the transformer rectifier relationship for a full wave bridge tells me I need the inverse of 0.61 times the current required, or 1.61 x 5 = 8 amps.

Multiply the voltage by the current and it says I need a 386 VA transformer, so I bought a 400 VA transformer to be on the safe side.

But isn't there something wrong here? This is stereo so I should need double??

OK then, show me any commercial amplifier that uses an 800 VA transformer to do 100 watts per channel stereo... do they weigh in at well over 10 kilos?

The one I'm looking at spec-wise weighs 5.1kg (all-in including enclosure, and all other parts), and does 90WPC into 4 Ohms (well known British brand).

They will usually use a 300 VA transformer and allow it to run saturated, or pulled down, or overloaded or whatever language you'd like to use.

And this is because when used to play music the full power will (normally) never be exploited, even on 100 watt peaks, which it cannot exceed - think about it.

It just needs to keep up for long enough to meet measured specification. Any longer and the transformer temperature rise will begin to cause damage.

So here I'm using 400 VA (ac watts) for hopefully 100 watts per channel, 200 watts total.

Next up: protection.


Edited by Graham Slee - 29 Jul 2018 at 9:44am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Graham Slee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jul 2018 at 11:05am
Fuse Ratings Do Make Sense?

If you look at a schematic for a power amplifier you might see a fuse rating which doesn't make sense.

For example the power rail fuse might read 2A but on a 64 watt into 4 Ohm amp, which is 4 amps, you'd expect it to be 4 amps...

However, on test it does 64 watts into a 4 Ohm dummy load indefinitely... with a 2 amp quick blow fuse!

What you need to know is average time current curves for fuses.

Pictured below is an example of what I will need for this amplifier. Maximum current to do 100 watts into 4 Ohms was established in my last post to be 5 amps.


The right hand edge of the dotted line is drawn up from the required current of 5 amps and it intersects the curve for a 2.5 amp fuse at 10000 seconds (2 and 3/4 hours - it may as well be indefinitely), and so if I fit a 2.5 amp quick blow fuse in the power rail (F1) it will do the required 100 watts into 4 Ohms.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Graham Slee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jul 2018 at 4:34pm
Power Transistor Choice

I was doubly surprised to be reading a book in 1991 about Harry Nyquist's power amplifier criterion.

First surprise was it was nothing to do with digital audio, and the second surprise was his conclusion regarding the sizing of the device - valves in those days - but it applied equally to transistors.

He stated that the power of the device in a push-pull circuit (such as here) need only be one-fifth of the required power. I did the numbers game and had to agree.

Now this assumes none of the phase shifts from reactive loads or short circuits or impedance dips - but it's good to know.

So for 100 watts our starting point is 20 watts per output device. But I'd have need of some complicated protection circuitry to prevent blow-outs when the load isn't purely resistive, or when there's a short, or when somebody turns the volume up beyond clipping.

Rather than spending money on protection why not spend it on a better output device?

In the 70s we had the 2N3055. Rated at 115 watts it was good for nearly 600 watts according to Nyquist, but its current gain cut-off frequency was only 10kHz, and so it was problematic at higher frequencies.

Even so it needed little protection and a suitably rated fuse usually opened before the device failed upon applying a dead-short.

With the Motorola homotaxial version I remember applying a short with a screwdriver; the arc melted a chunk out of it, and the amp continued playing music on its mains transformer and output capacitor (very distorted) instead of the speaker. The fuse in this case never opened, and upon removing the short, the music continued to play through the speaker. Maybe it had lost some performance but I didn't have an audio analyser at the time to check it (roughly 1978).

To improve on performance over the 2N3055 used to mean using faster transistors which had poorer current handling, which meant paralleling devices, and paralleled bases could contribute more input capacitance, and often you would see two or more paralleled output stages driven by the one voltage amplifier.

The voltage amplifier then had to supply more current, and the basic bootstrap circuit was replaced by a current source, and more transistors led to more different and inconvenient phase shifts with the stability problems they present.

And in fact my memory of the kit amp is coming back to me, and it used a current source in place of the bootstrap (R9, R10, C5), but maybe the bootstrap will suffice? We will have to wait for the measurements, which means building one first.

So what am I going to use as output device?

I think it must be the MJL3281A (https://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/MJL3281A-D.PDF).

At first glance its 25 amp peak collector current looks good, but that's tested for 0.005 seconds, and it would take between 0.01 and 0.015 seconds for the fuse to open at 25 amps.

It is 15 amps continuously, and the fuse would take 0.04 seconds to open. Will this be fast enough to open the fuse before the device is destroyed?

And this is where the word "compromise" comes into play, linked with the phrase "damage limitation". We see a 2 amp fuse opens in 0.008 seconds - closer to 0.005 seconds for 25 amps peak collector current, and there will never be an audio signal large and long enough to open a 2 amp fuse in normal use. On spec-test being driven continuously by a sine wave it could blow, but maybe not. Such a variable will need to be tested practically.

But I think the MJL3281A is a good choice. We see all other items of its specification are darned well superb, especially its current gain and transition frequency.

So how do we drive it?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Graham Slee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 2018 at 7:12am
Under a direct short output condition simulation shows the output capacitor, inductor-bypass resistor, and emitter resistors all taking a hit as expected, and experience says the power supply will not escape.

Sub 1kHz the large electrolytics of the power supply and the output capacitors will suffer worst, with anything up to 15 amps of ripple assuming output transistor survival, but by paralleling two 9.34A ripple capacitors on the output, and the same with power supply reservoirs, these should take it.

The inductor and bypass resistor bear the brunt above 1kHz and must be suitably rated. The emitter resistors also need to be rated suitably.

At 1kHz roughly the output transistors have to deal with all of it, and with NFB shorted at the output, the amp falls to open loop gain, and so all devices are working hard heading in the direction of 40dB gain. The risk here is in exceeding what the BD139/BD140 drivers can do.

The bases of the output transistors will be demanding more current from them. Output device saturation might demand up to 1.5 amps base current, which is the limit for the BD139/BD140's.

But if the output devices weld-up before the fuse blows, the only survivor is going to be T1, and maybe T2.

So what could be done to prevent this? The only answer is to limit current, but this never works as imagined, and tends to cut in at the wrong times - when the power is needed for the amplifiers normal task.

Current limiting always involves a resistor somewhere because output stage transistor clamps would otherwise short out the voltage amplifier. The problem here is it messes up phase and gain margin, so stability is compromised at the expense of saving the amplifier.

A clever relay circuit sensing fault conditions might be the answer, but what does it switch off? Try getting relay contacts to open with "fault current" across them - they simply don't because the arc produced is trying to weld them together!

Having worked on designs supposed to have such protection I know the protection simply doesn't work, and instead my time was spent identifying and replacing blown transistors.

The consumer needs to be alert to the fact that short circuits are of his making and will cause damage, and not to blame the amplifier manufacturer for his errors.

What we want is all-out performance, but that means the utmost care in using the amplifier.

It looks like our only hope lies with the 2 amp fuse!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ServerBaboon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 2018 at 2:52pm
Confused

I have always assumed that we should not short outputs and have always taken great care when doing anything with speaker connections/cables etc by switching off the amp.

When did it become ok to short out your outputs though lack of care?


Mind you I also have an amp that gets upset at high capacitance speaker cables so it puts me on edge.
Steve

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Various bits of GSP Kit ..well two so far, unless you count the cables that is.
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