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1970s Design Indulgence

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JamesD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2019 at 9:25pm
I have a 70's Aiwa AX7600 that sounds good (to my ears) but the lack of remote control is a bug-bear. Not mentioning any names I'm in the process of DIYing a power amplifier based on a circuit design done by someone who hosts quite a big website with hi-fi related projects and articles. When I come to do a pre-amp the remote volume control is a definite must. Input selection and 'bypassable' tone controls can remain manual. If it wasn't for my liking of DIY I'd be buying more of your gear instead btw :-)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Graham Slee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2019 at 12:40am
Originally posted by JamesD JamesD wrote:

If it wasn't for my liking of DIY I'd be buying more of your gear instead btw :-)


I am quite passionate about DIY audio but understand that I don't have a following like some do. I keep away from contributing to DIY audio websites because I would feel uncomfortable talking in "a different language" to the regulars. I also realise some characters have godly positions and they and their disciples might not want me around. I once sent a friendly email to Doug Self but he never replied.

Even so, I'm quite happy to try and educate using the lessons I've learnt. It might be interesting to note that JLH was often criticised by "godly characters" through the letters pages of Wireless World, for his way of understanding. It seems like if you're not part of the club one has to die before becoming accepted...

In all my ramblings regarding trying to squeeze out of old configurations the sort of subjective performance I and customers here are used to, I have examined other factors to those which are accepted elsewhere. What I haven't done is to say the design is finished based on the occasional good measured results. From time to time I've felt like throwing in the towel simply because there is something today profoundly affecting the sound which I've never come across before. I'm sure there will be a solution but I don't know when.

I don't know if anyone here has read John Linsley Hood's Valve & Transistor Amplifier book, but the transistor power amplifier chapters are a depressing read: Not one single development in the years up to 1997 can come close to the valve sound according to JLH, and there have been numerous technical innovations to tackle the equally numerous problems he outlines. On the other hand, the two JLH circuits offered, which feature at least one of these problems, are hailed as being better.

I don't profess to have read every book on the subject but here are those I have read:

Audio Power Amplifier Design: Self
Small Signal Audio Design: Self
Electronics for Vinyl: Self
Designing Audio Power Amplifiers: Cordell
Valve & Transistor Amplifiers: Hood
Audio Electronics: Hood
Valve Amplifiers: Jones

...plus numerous magazine articles 1954 onwards by numerous authors, and commercial amplifier circuits, none of which present an answer to the difficulty I have been experiencing.

It would be nice to be able to move on because I have a few interesting ideas to share on the preamp section including a novel approach to remote control, as well as a box of 100 Alps motor pots gathering dust.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JamesD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2019 at 6:32am
Thanks for the information Graham. I'll carry on reading this thread with interest. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Graham Slee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2019 at 10:41pm
The last two modifications left me scratching my head: how can more voltage on T1, and "improved" charge sweeping of the output transistors, lead to more distortion?

I thought it must be due to not having sufficient loop gain so I reduced the voltage amplifier local NFB. No real difference.

It must be the T1 voltage thing I thought, and I laboriously modified it back to how it was. Surprisingly the distortion was just as bad.

Reluctantly I removed the (recommended) charge sweeping capacitor. The distortion fell back to what you'd expect for such a amplifier: less than 0.1%. I guess if you've near-on 100dB of open-loop gain to work with anything measures fine. I've around 100 times less.

So then I laboriously put the T1 "voltage increasing circuit" back, and the distortion measured around 0.1%, so THD wise Otala's tip does nothing and I often wonder if AP programmed the analyser to give exactly the same inter-modulation results no matter what you test...

It's enough to make you think all these experts were just having a laugh.

Anyway, since I was not trying to trim out such a massive amount of THD anymore I was able to secure less than 0.1% THD (around 0.06%) at 1 watt with 120mA output stage quiescent current, so it no longer burns the thenars of your hands (27C ambient!)... But guess what? It now has zero effect on the third harmonic (as if at -60dB it could be heard). Wacko


Edited by Graham Slee - 25 Aug 2019 at 3:37am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Graham Slee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 3:26am
Latest state of the circuit



(to see a larger version open same page in another window and click view image)

Power output both channels driven reached 40 watts at the onset of clipping at just under 1% THD 1kHz.

At -1dBu power output is just over 32 WPC and THD 1kHz falls to less than 0.1%.

Evident are the current sharing resistors to lower their power dissipation.

The diode bias spreader is a bit better in my opinion as the quiescent current now only varies 6mA (5% at 120mA Iq) between HTs of 65 and 75 volts.

The local NFB resistor R12 was increased to 180k giving around 52dB gain before global NFB. This gives a frequency response up to about 10kHz before global NFB; this supposedly being a plus-point for transient IM.

Although input stage current is lower, slew rate isn't reduced because the compensation capacitor C7 is not between T2 collector and base (according to JLH).

R10 combines with C7 to produce a zero as per the Bailey 30W amplifier.

Back to R12, and its take off point is from the top of the bias spreader such that there is no variance due to the bias spreader trimmer.

There is no reason why C7 cannot be taken from the same point.

There are two DC negative feedback loops which should aid DC stability: the original one due to obtaining bias for T1 base from T2 emitter resistance chain; and from T2 collector (via the bias spreader) to T1 emitter via R12.

In the Bailey amplifier T1 base is biased from a regulated voltage, but its collector-emitter voltage "floats". In this amplifier T1 collector-emitter voltage is mostly regulated by the zenner stabilizer. I say mostly because R12 influences T1 emitter and its current can alter with HT by around 0.01mA. The 2x DC NFB however, should afford it good stability.

With increasing circuit ambient temperature T1 will conduct harder reducing T2 base voltage, reducing T2 emitter voltage and via T1 base reduce its conductance. With decreasing temperature the opposite will be true. Therefore DC NFB 1 is stable.

Likewise T1 conducting harder causes the voltage at the top of R12 to rise, injecting more current across R9-11 such that its voltage rises, reducing T1 conductance, and vice-versa, so DC NFB 2 is stable.

The main difference however, is that T1 can swing a much larger voltage. Its outside-loop gain is 17.5 and its collector load R8 could swing 4.55V rms and so the input could reach about 1/3rd of input sensitivity for full output before distorting; this being limited by the collector resistor rather than the hard characteristic of the transistor. This is assuming the NFB is doing nothing which according to Otala, is possible for a fast leading edge; this being due to sluggish output transistors.

However, R12 applies local NFB of such magnitude that T1 should be able to swing more than the input voltage. Additionally T2 base resistance is part of T1's collector circuit so gain will not be exactly 17.5. It will be more like 10. By adjusting values of R8 and R14 we could obtain perfect symmetry which is an option which may or may not have any effect.

So far I have not detected any switch on "thump" and the only way of telling it's working is to play something. Restarting from a power cut might cause a loud bang in the speakers though, and this is due to source equipment. Should the amplifier meet with my sonic requirements I will consider ways of muting the amplifier at power-up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Graham Slee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 5:19am
Damping Factor or Driving Impedance?

Tuning reflex port resonance requires a 100 ohm resistor in series with the signal generator output to the drive unit as well as an AC meter across the drive unit. As the signal generator output is swept in frequency (gradually, by hand) the voltage will rise at the speaker's resonance and the various voltages per frequency noted and then turned into a graph to see its response. Cabinet tuning then takes place such that the plotted peak turns into two smaller peaks about the original...

I include the above to show what value of output resistance is required for the speaker to depart sufficiently from "flat", making it obvious. At 10 ohms it would be less obvious and more difficult to measure, and so at 1 ohm - a 1/100th of the original value - it would be very difficult to obtain good measurements because the output would be virtually flat.

With 1 ohm driving impedance (impedance being the word used for resistance when dealing with AC) and an 8 ohm speaker the ratio from the speaker "looking back" to that driving impedance is 8:1, and that gives us an indication of the degree of control the amplifier has over the speaker such that its frequency response will hardly fluctuate.

They (whoever they were) decided to call it damping factor (D.F.) and in the 1 ohm driving impedance case above, the DF is (obviously) 8.

There are a number of people who believe damping factor is like some "hand of God" which has tight (or loose) control of the speaker cone. I suppose to the imaginative it seems that way, but if you try and observe the movement of a speaker cone you will not see it (unless perhaps you are using the 100 ohm test and can film it in slow motion).

And if DF led to an iron grip, then how is it you are able to push the cone and it feels the same with or without it being connected? This is due to frequency response of the amplifier by the way. If you were able to move the cone at different normal operating frequencies you might be able to feel some resistance. Damping factor is a concept.

We don't take that concept and apply it to the cartridge's control of a phono stage input do we? Well, we could, but it suffices - for moving coil anyway - that if we load it ten or more times its internal impedance it will deliver a "nice" sound. In AC (capacitor) coupling of a phono cartridge input a designer will sometimes (or should) consider what the amplifier "sees" looking back into its source, as a capacitor which will pass the lowest required frequency to the input, will become "resistive" below ten or so times that frequency looking the other way, and so low frequency noise might increase.

In a vinyl set-up we might have a 10 ohm driving impedance cartridge driving a 100 ohm input load, or a 50 ohm cartridge driving into 500 ohms. The load here tends to damp any wild resonance. And sometimes that wild resonance is used to sparkle-up a dull sounding system by allowing a bit more wildness by selecting another load, say 1000 ohms.

The above is given so that you might be able to understand what damping factor and driving impedance is about which should enable you to understand the next part.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Graham Slee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 7:40am
What's in a Naim?

Another question could be who thought of it first, JLH or Julian Vereker?

It can be seen that Naim were using a 0.22 ohm output resistor, at least in 1982 (http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/Armstrong/reviews/finale/1982.html - about 2/3rd of the way down the page).

JLH's books (the ones I have) came out in the 90s, so I guess Naim have it.

JLH explains that it helps linearise crossover distortion, especially in quasi output stages, which Naim was using at the time (perhaps still do?).

Jim Lesurf seems to be of the opinion that using an output resistor coloured reviewer’s subjective findings, and he could be right.

Naim were using the resistor in lieu of an output inductor, but it would be insufficient in removing the pole formed at the output due to capacitive loading, and so Naim instructions warn about speaker cable capacitance (I am told).

But let's not get bogged down by review and/or user politics - it is the resistor and how it can be of benefit (or not) I am interested in.

Depending on the designer's idea of output stage current limiting (I am not talking about protection circuitry here, although it is sometimes related), emitter resistors are used and can be in the value range of 0.1 - 0.47 ohms (I am using 0.33 ohms).

Additionally there is intrinsic emitter resistance which varies with output and is Vt/Iout and at 1W is 0.07 ohms, and this value falls with increasing output.

Adding 0.33 to 0.07 we get a total emitter resistance of 0.4 ohms, but this isn't the amplifier's output resistance because it is reduced by global negative feedback.

If we have 20dB NFB it is reduced (by a factor of 10) to 0.04 ohms. And if we have an 8 ohm load the ratio is 200:1 which gives the conceptual damping factor of 200. If we had 40dB NFB it can be seen that a DF of 2000 would result, but we then have wiring resistance coming into play, so DF is diminished and will never reach such heady heights.

It has to be asked what amount of driving impedance control we really need. Valve output transformers tended to provide a DF of around 20. Because a transformer is an AC device, at subsonic frequencies there is much reduced output and therefore output impedance has risen such that at half power it is 14; quarter power 10; and so on. Any amplifier with a low frequency roll-off will not be able to exert control of loudspeaker excursions below some frequency.

DF is not very linear, and so inserting series resistance will at least make it more linear. Some might see it as bringing all pupils in a class down to the level of the least talented.

Remember though, I told you that substituting a 1 ohm resistor for the 100 ohm resistor whilst doing resonance measurements would make it very difficult to read values, and so an output resistance (or impedance seeing we are talking about AC) of little under 1 ohm isn't so bad.

We can estimate the addition of a 0.22 ohm resistor as giving around 0.25 or 0.26 ohms, and so the ratio is around 31:1 or 32:1, and we may as well round it to 30:1, so the Naim damping factor, if it had been published, would have been around 30.

Perhaps an excellent valve output transformer might do 30 at a push, so you can see the point JLH is making.

How we could try it out in my circuit is a bit in-depth and I will tackle it in my next post.
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