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tg [RIP] View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tg [RIP] Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2013 at 8:10pm
Just don't let the magic smoke out - very difficult to get it back in (voice of experience) Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BackinBlack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2013 at 8:18pm
Ah Yes, if you let the smoke out it'll never work. Never succeeded in catching it, let alone putting it back in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ICL1P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2013 at 8:56am
My best guess is solder bridges, but until I get a magnifying glass, which may not be today, I won't be certain. How does one rectify a solder bridge?

What size and shape of tip is best for PCB work?

Edited by ICL1P - 24 Mar 2013 at 8:56am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Graham Slee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2013 at 9:52am
Originally posted by ICL1P ICL1P wrote:

My best guess is solder bridges, but until I get a magnifying glass, which may not be today, I won't be certain. How does one rectify a solder bridge?

What size and shape of tip is best for PCB work?


I think you will find desolder braid/wick quite useful. You tin the iron and heat the joint with the braid on top of it and the excess solder is wicked into the braid.

See this one: http://cpc.farnell.com/chemtronics/60-4-5/2-8mm-soder-wick-desoldering-braid/dp/SD00326

Sometimes solder doesn't like to reflow - you can get it to happen using copious amounts of this: http://cpc.farnell.com/chemtronics/cw8100/no-clean-flux-dispensing-pen/dp/SA00859

But clean the stuff off with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) and a brush and mop up well.

I use a 2.4mm sloped tip on a 60 watt mains Weller iron for everything I do including this...



Try watching this...



And take a look around here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/john_gammell/sets/72157623863571447/

and here: http://solderingtraining.com/gallery.php

(the video takes a while to load)


That none should be able to buy or sell without a smartphone and the knowledge in how to use apps
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ICL1P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2013 at 11:18am
Wow! Thank you Graham.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Graham Slee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2013 at 1:58pm
Like I said, I use a 2.4mm sloped tip. It looks similar to the one at the start of the video above.

For soldering component leads I rotate the iron so the flat is touching the lead and the reverse side is on the pad. This relies on good tinning/wetting of the iron's bit.

The video shows the use of leaded solder. I'm able to tell because it flows so easily. It also results in a gleaming shine.

I'm not allowed to use leaded solder and therefore it is much harder to get it to flow. What the guy shows in the video taking one sweep of the iron simply doesn't happen with unleaded.

Tin by itself becomes more brittle as it's heated and when molten it isn't very plastic. It needs aggressive fluxes in copious amounts to make it work.

Lead is a very plastic metal at all temperatures and the ideal 'mate' for tin.

Hence you can get 60/40 tin/lead solder which is great to work with.

However, the World Health Organisation says Lead when found in the water supply causes cancer and other similar nasties in infants.

So the EU banned Leaded solders for manufacturing use.

Right now infants in Syria are dying from cancer due to Lead (and other heavy metals) from spent ordnance being deposited in drinking water...

So the EU stands back and lets it happen...

Bloody hypocrites!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tg [RIP] Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2013 at 4:22pm

A couple of thoughts following from Graham's rather thorough treatment;

A flux pen (Jaycar or the like) is handy for reflowing joints and desoldering/removing excess solder.

Leaded solder is legal for hobbyists and much easier to use, 60/40 is easiest to find but eutectic 63/37 is better for avoiding "dry joints" caused by part movement during cooling.

My personal choice is Cardas Quad Eutectic (from Hificollective) not cheap but 100gm lasts a long while - the extra additives should reduce the possibility of embrittlement of joints to gold flashed or silver plated surfaces such as phono sockets and plugs, nice to use too.

More heat is better than less heat, with too little the joint takes too long to reach temperature as heat travels away from the join area into adjacent components, increasing collateral damage as well as frustration.

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