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1970s Design Indulgence |
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morris_minor ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Joined: 27 Mar 2012 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 5904 |
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![]() ![]() 1. The output stage bias is now fixed (no longer adjustable) and is determined purely by the thermal "feedback" diodes. Two are on each output transistor (one on each transistor) which, by their own temperature coefficient, reduce the bias voltage very slightly as the output transistors get hot, which prevents them going into thermal runaway. The two additional diodes which make up the base spreader voltage are on the circuit board. All told there are 4 diode voltage drops between the driver transistor bases, which turn on the output transistors just enough to conduct some standing current, to prevent "crossover" distortion around the zero crossing of the loudspeaker signal. The 4 MUR120 diodes gave an insufficient base spreading voltage, and so one of the board mounted ones was changed to a 1N4148 signal diode, which has a slightly greater diode drop. The meters, which now only serve to indicate rather than assist adjustment, will show approx. 12. With music playing, the instantaneous bias voltage will be greater than 12, but not so great as to cause a thermal runaway increase. This means the output stage is operating just on the south side of class AB. 2. The front panel adjustment trimmer is now out of circuit and no amount of adjustment will make any difference. 3. The input stage 0V returns now go by a single route, via the chassis, to power supply 0V. Before, each took its own route back to power supply 0V, and then each went to the input chassis connection. What was formed was a diamond shape path where current could flow to 0V by the other input stage's 0V, which is the unfortunate convention still used by some designers. In this a.c. coupled design, the asymmetrical current pulses worsened the cross channel 0V effect. The effect results in audible distortion (brightness mainly), but isn't as noticeable with a DC coupled amplifier. The 0V path is now determined so cross channel 0V connection cannot exist (a T shape connection). ---------------- The only one I really understand is item 2 ![]() However - having had the amp on for a couple of hours yesterday afternoon I can definitely report that it runs cooler - barely warm to the touch in fact. Listening impressions will follow!
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Bob
Majestic DAC/pre-amp Accession MC/Enigma, Accession MM, Reflex M, Elevator EXP, Era Gold V Solo ULDE, Novo, Lautus USB and digital, Libran balanced, CuSat50 2 x Proprius + Spatia/Spatia Links |
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BAK ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Mar 2010 Location: Kentucky, USA Status: Offline Points: 1735 |
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Thank you, Bob, for the update on the 7eventies Amp.
We/I look forward to your listening impressions of another Graham Slee masterpiece.
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Bruce
AT-14SA, Pickering XV-15, Hana EL, Technics SL-1600MK2, Lautus, Majestic DAC, Technics SH-8055 spectrum analyzer, Eminence Beta8A custom cabs; Proprius & Reflex M or C, Enjoy Life your way! |
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ICL1P ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Aug 2012 Location: Faringdon, Oxon Status: Offline Points: 2324 |
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Ifor
===== Reflex M & ACCESSION M, CuSat50, Majestic DAC, a Proprius pair. |
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Graham Slee ![]() Admin Group ![]() ![]() Retired Joined: 11 Jan 2008 Location: South Yorkshire Status: Offline Points: 16097 |
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Since retiring three months ago, I've been doing a lot more thinking about DIY, here meaning old - old school. In a way, buying a PCB to mount some components isn't that far off painting by numbers, and you don't learn to paint that way - it's false. Valve amplifiers can be made without a PCB, so how about a transistor amp? OK, so perhaps that was a bad idea... Then I discovered what Japanese DIY'ers have come up with. ![]() ![]() As soon as I saw that pattern it reminded me of the PCB patterns often seen in old Practical Wireless projects. Take any block of four and you can see where the base, emitter and collector can connect and then see that the passives have three pads to connect those transistor terminals to other parts of the circuit. And there's no spot face cutting of those horrible stripboard strips, and things are nicely spaced (OK, no good for IC's). The RS part number is 631-1839, and they're around £3 each, so after finding Sunhayato's own website that's got proper details about their part AT-40W(46), I decided to use £30 of my pocket money to buy 10 pieces (from RS). It'll probably take 2-3 weeks for them to arrive, but I'm in no rush. As you can see, there are two sections, each having one hundred little squares, so that's 400 pads per section, in groups of four, and I'm sure that'll be sufficient to lay out most of an amplifier channel. The power devices won't fit to these boards, but they can be hard wired from their heat sink positions (and their respective diodes). So, I reckon that one suitable heat sink and two channels built on that board will make a relatively compact power amp.
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That none should be able to buy or sell without a smartphone and the knowledge in how to use apps
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BAK ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Mar 2010 Location: Kentucky, USA Status: Offline Points: 1735 |
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Sunhayato is a highly regarded Japanese company. Their products are made with good quality.
I look forward to your DIY progress.
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Bruce
AT-14SA, Pickering XV-15, Hana EL, Technics SL-1600MK2, Lautus, Majestic DAC, Technics SH-8055 spectrum analyzer, Eminence Beta8A custom cabs; Proprius & Reflex M or C, Enjoy Life your way! |
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Graham Slee ![]() Admin Group ![]() ![]() Retired Joined: 11 Jan 2008 Location: South Yorkshire Status: Offline Points: 16097 |
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So, how to house a power amp using DIY skills only? What could I use? I could use wood, but I'm no woodworker, but I know a man that can. My son Ryan is setting up his woodshop in the space vacated by dad, which is adjacent my back office, which is now dad's man cave, and I'm going to call it the museum, because that's where you put old things... ![]() We just spent two months making him a giant multi-purpose bench including table saw, mitre saw and built-in router table. Next job is to do his jointer/planer table, and get his stock of panel and other things I don't understand sorted. I managed to squeeze three sheet metal tools into a tiny corner he let me have... ![]() Now, I am having to be tight with my spending because all I worked for is not wholly mine, as the HMRC is yet to help itself to 10%, which isn't bad I suppose, but they already taxed it year upon year upon year, so I reckon enterpreneur's tax relief at 10% is only fair (not!). And I'm glad I retired when I did because the other side wants to tax it at 40% (rob dogs!). So, I spent just over £500 on the sheet metal tools, and another £50 on 25 sheets of 12" x 8" 1.2mm thick aluminium (pardon my mixed measurements but when I was at school we did both). Therefore, I can make a chassis 12" x 8", and so the circuit board I'm buying (see last post) and the heatsink, should take up just over half, leaving me with enough room at one end for the power supply. Then, any controls or connectors can be on smaller pieces of sheet metal, set into the woodwork. But won't this flout the standards? You know, the EMC stuff and all that? Well, I already ran the RF spectrum analyser on the metal cased amp with the lid off, and you can see the shots several pages ago, so it isn't going to generate any crap. It's also quite immune, so I reckon it can be housed just like those posh valve amps (which also pass EMC standards). So here's a video of some woodworkery I found on YouTube... |
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That none should be able to buy or sell without a smartphone and the knowledge in how to use apps
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Sylvain ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 18 Jan 2010 Status: Offline Points: 457 |
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been waiting for this since early this century when I encountered the Phono Pre amp Special Edition in a Can and his Mind to create an Un-contestable Design of Musicality and through the Forum heart display a heart to share... Can't wait .... despite the ages and health
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